Excursions or things to do
We are asked what’s on offer in this part of Languedoc Roussillon. It is easy to provide a list simply because the range of activities is wide and caters for most interests.
There are lakes within a 45 minute drive with excellent fishing. A good nine-hole golf course just down the road outside Lamalou les Bains, plus a riding stable even closer.
The Canal du Midi and the Etang de Thau home of the famous Bouzigues Oysters and Mussels, all offer a quiet escape. Below you will find a paragraph about the sea, it has all that the Mediterranean boasts, golden beaches, sparkling blue water, but beware! in high summer there are crowds and a lot of traffic.
If it is history that you are looking for, you can follow the traces of the Cathars; pursue your own ideas about the truth behind the Da Vinci Code.
Béziers our nearest local city has its own Fiesta in mid August and Montpellier houses Radio France’s Annual Music Festival a miniature Proms in July!
We’ve set out below some specific ideas of ours which may be of interest.
If some of these pursuits seem a little too energetic in the height of summer, then come back in the autumn and spring or even come and spend a relaxing Christmas with us.
Walking Le Rando!
This part of the Languedoc has some of the finest walks in the South of France both for beginners and for those who have adapted to a 20 km walk or longer. Chris sets off every Tuesday with a group of ‘Radonneur’s for his weekly walk of just 15 kms. Keeps you fit and improves your French. Some friends who come every year in May have made a DVD of their last holiday, if you would like a copy please ask
Roquebrun, this village is just over a half an hour’s drive from the Chateau. The river Orb flows through the village and has created a very pleasant and safe place to swim. To get there, turn right on the main road in the direction of Olargues, shortly after passing the village of St Martin d’Arcon, turn left and cross the bridge du Tarassac you are then on the right road. In addition the village has its Mediterranean Garden just five minutes walk from the centre. There are bars and a good restaurant Le Petit Nice. On the way back stop off at the Le Lezard Bleu in Vieussan for a cool drink or snack.
Further afield and inland, a full day can be spent by visiting the fortified village of La Couvertoirade (a miniature Carcassone without the tourist gloss). This is one of the villages which on one day in July or August stages a Medieval Pageant and for just 4 Euros, you can watch knights in armour, maidens in distress, field sports, and craftsmen. The date changes every year, so ask Chris or Thérèse. This is one of four almost unspoilt Knights Templar Strongholds. The bad news is that there are some truly excellent shops, just in case the ladies would like to buy some very fashionable clothes, leather goods, medieval armour etc. To get there, the quietest and most pleasant drive is to go to Hérépian and Bédarieux, do not turn off in Bedarieux, but continue towards Le Bousquet d’Orb and Lunas, then you follow the signs for Les Rives and Le Caylar. About an hour after leaving the Chateau and a short drive along the top of the plateau you will arrive in Le Caylar. This is the village which has magnificent tree sculptured into the shape of a person. Le Couvertoirade is just 7 kms from there. (The motorway service station has an excellent baker, try his savoury fougasse.
You can easily combine it with a visit to Le Velorail just fifteen minutes by car
from le Caylar
Medieval Pageants
The Larzac historical reconstructions will take place as follows
La Cavalerie, St.Jean d’Alcas, La Couvertoirade, Viala du Pas de Jaux, Saint-Eulalie de Cernon close to the Vélorail station. Dates for 2010 have not yet been announced
All of these start at 1000 and continue until 1800,
Prices to be confirmed; Adult 4 Euros, children 6–12; 2 Euros, For a family of 2 adults and 2 children it is only 10 Euros
Le Velorail
Is what the name suggests a bike for four which takes you along the main railway line. You pay for the privilege and all departures are after the Orient Express has left! It is a leisurely pedal along a short stretch of the railway line which once started at Tournemire Roquefort (home of Roquefort cheese) to le Vigan and beyond as far as Sommière close to Nimes. Its good fun, especially useful for losing a kilo or so as the outward stretch is slightly uphill. The journey home is downhill, but the brakes are very efficient. The dispatcher (a railway term used by Chekhov ) gives full instructions, safety advice and tells you what to do when you meet this rather weird underground animal in the long tunnel. You’ll enjoy every minute. When we last went, there was just a very basic snack bar, but there are picnic tables, so take some lunch or at least a flask of iced rosé, chardonnay or sauvignon or even some of the château’s special mineral water. To get there follow the above instructions for La Couvertoirade, continue along the A 75, but turn off at the next service station service station next to the little airport and head for Le Hospitalet. Le Vélorail is to be found at the station of Ste Eulalie de Cernon. Just in case you wondered, when you get to the end of the line; there is a device to help you turn round your Orient Express on bike wheels.
You will need to book as in the high season they are often booked at least three days in advance.
New is the combined vélorail and tourist train.
You ride the bike downhill in the direction of Roquefort and when you get to the end of the line, your bike is attached to the front of the train which then climbs back to the starting stations, it is climb of 18 in a 1000.
The owner is now renovating another old station at the end of the line and has plans for a steam locomotive in 2010 all being well
Le Viaduc de Millau is worth driving across as well as underneath by visiting the town of Rodez. To get there follow the above instructions for La Couvertoirade, but stay on the A75, it is, just under half an hour from Le Caylar to the viaduc.
La Mer, the Sea. We have not as yet mentioned the sea, as to where to head for is a personal choice. The nearest resort Valras Plage is the other side of Béziers. Slightly more sophisticated, with good beach facilities, snack bar and restaurant is Cap d’Agde. You can park immediately behind the beach, at this resort head for Les Plages Richelieu, close to the yachting centre.
One word of advice, at the weekend, the world and his wife are there, and unless you go early morning or mid evening, you will have problems getting to and from.
To get to Valras Plage, head for Béziers and the A9 motorway entrance and then follow the signs. To get to Cap d’Agde, take the same route to Béziers past the motorway entrance towards Valras, but at the big roundabout turn on to the N112 it will take you all the way there.
Canal du Midi
Now classified by UNESCO as a site of special beauty, the canal offers a choice of quiet and shady spots. The seven locks at Béziers are rather special, and if you go at opening time of the lock not the bar, you will see fellow boaters struggling with their boats. From there you can walk leisurely 6 kms to Colombiers where there are a couple of good basic restaurants where there is a cooling drink and good and inexpensive menu. If you are really keen to explore the canal bank and to look out for Toad, Ratty and Mole, then you can walk another 6 kms from Colombiers to Pailhes, yet again another 6 kms from Pailhes to Capestang. What you need to do is to persuade your partner to follow in the car. Take your camera; there are some really special spots. For another trip drive to Sallèles d’Aude which is not on the Canal du Midi but on the adjacent short Canal du Robine which joins the Canal du Midi from Narbonne.
Sallèles has an excellent couple of brasserie type bars. From Sallèles it is just ten minutes by car to Somail on the Canal du Midi, where there is a floating épiciér, ducks and a fascinating second-hand bookshop with air conditioning. You can and could spend hours just browsing. To find both places on the map ask Chris or Thérèse
Underground
If you would like to go underground, then the Grottes de Clamouse are well worth a visit. They are to be found close to St Guilhem le Desert. To get there, drive to Hérépian, and then right to Béziers, at the top of the hill at Faugères turn off towards Pézenas. In Pézenas follow the N113 towards Meze, but shortly after crossing the river l’Herault about 3 kms for Pézenas turn left towards Gignac, in Gignac follow the signs for St Guilhem, the Grottes are just before you arrive in St Guilhem. If you want to return by a different route, drive back via Clermont Ferrand and Bédarieux
Much closer to home we have our own two Gorges. The first in this village of Colombières sur Orb and the second the Gorges d’Heric. To get to the Gorges d’Heric, drive towards Olargues and you will find the entrance to the gorges at Mons La Trivalle.
If you would like advice as to where to walk just ask and we will provide you with some written guides and tell you where to go.
Tree Walking Arbracadabranche; if you and or your children want to go walking in the trees, then just five minutes away from the Chateau you will find just the thing. The Raynal family offers just that at La Pomarède. Turn sharp right at the bottom of the lane, do not go on to the main road and follow the signs for La Pomarède. To book call 04 67 95 80 42
Da Vinci Code; There is a direct link in the intrigue of the Dan Brown book to the mystery of the priest and his fortune in the hilltop village of Rennes le Château. The village of Rennes le Château is to be found in the Département of L’Aude south of Carcassone. Take the D118 from Carcassone in the direction of Limoux (home of the bubbly) and Quillan. Continue to the village of Couiza some 17 kms, beyond Limoux. In Couiza, turn left and almost immediately turn right uphill on to the D152, this climbs up to Rennes le Château.
Carcassone perhaps the star in the crown of this region is about an hour and three quarters drive. Take the cross country route either via Mazamet or via St Chinian and enjoy the Canal du Midi en route. Most times of the year there are a lot of tourists visiting the old city called le Cité. There is good parking. One of the best views of the fortified town is to be had on the road to Limoux from the lay-by at the top of the hill.
You could combine a visit with one to Rennes le Château
Steam and Tourist Railways; There are several to be visited. To the south is the Diesel Railcar train from Rivesaltes near Perpignan along the valley towards AXAT. Then there is the Le Petit Train Jaune, the little yellow train which takes you up to the Pyrenees where you can walk into Spain. This train is a regular SNCF service but with open top carriages in summer. Steam is to be found at St Jean du Gard north of Nimes. This is one of the best run lines in France.
For details of any or all of these lines, just talk to Chris who has a few tips to pass on.
Industrial Archaeology
There were cotton and fabric mills in the villages close to Mazamet (a 50 minute drive from Colombières) and albeit most have now stopped production, the journey west of St Pons makes an interesting drive.
As you approach Mazamet, there are some good value factory clothes shops worth a short stop
Back to the many former railway lines, one of which passed through Colombières en route from Mazamet to Bédarieux and Montpellier. Chris has written a book on this very subject complete with maps, old and new photographs as well as five watercolours by artist Patrick Amorsi recreating the atmosphere of the trains. The book entitled “The lost railway lines of L’Hérault in French and in English available from our reception at just 15 Euros.
If you extend your stay in
the Pezenas area you can find additional advice on how to keep the family
entertained from a website.
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